EKA (Emergency Key Access) Code
The EKA code is a 4 digit coded inputted through the key lock as described in the Owner’s Manual. The EKA code is encoded in the ECU and can be access using the following procedure:
Select: MG/MGF/Lucas 5AS/
The EKA code that was encoded into the ECU and printed on original documentation was found to be incorrect until about 1998ish. Generally, you add one to the 2nd and 4th digits. Peter Mittler found that his EKA code stored on the car’s computer was wrong, but he had to subtract one from the 2nd and 4th digits.
Example: 6532 probably is 6633, but could be 6431
Faultmate MSV-2: How-to for Fault Tasks for the MGF
Posted By mowog73 On February 18, 2014 @ 3:27 pm In Technical Articles | No Comments
The Faultmate MSV-2 is a very powerful diagnostic tool, capable of pretty much everything that the factory Testbook/T-4 is capable of. With Faultmate, you have access to different vehicle systems such as: the ECU, ABS, Airbag, 5AS Alarm Module, EPAS Power Steering System. The Faultmate provides information on the fault code as well live data from each vehicle system that can provide it. The Faultmate is capable of programming key fobs and accessing the EKA (Emergency Key Access) code.
The main problem with the Faultmate is that none of us use it enough to become really proficient with the units, not much goes wrong with the MGF and therefore the Faultmate doesn’t get broken out much. As such, its easy to forget how to do certain tasks, and the Faultmate’s interface is not the most intuitive.
Programming a key fob(s)
1. Select by ECU / Anti Theft / Lucas 5AS / Information / SM034 PLIP programming (learn mode)
2. There you will find the instruction on how to “Start” LEARN MODE.
3. Press the left button on the FOB until the horn beeped. Repeat for each fob you want to program.
4. Press Finish.
It seems that different version of the Faultmate software may have slightly different ways to get to this operation. The following worked for me:
1. Select: MG/MGF/Lucas 5AS/Other.
2. Now you see the screen for Plip Learn and follow the instructions for START and FINISH.
Fixing Cracks in a Plastic Bumper
Posted By mowog73 On July 9, 2013 @ 12:45 pm In Technical Articles | No Comments
When I bought the MGF there was a crack in the rear bump near the wheel that was very unsightly. I was told that body shops could repair this crack easily but I’m sure that it would cost several hundred dollars for them to repair it.
The method I used to repair the crack was through the use of a product called PlastiFix kit made by Urethane Supply Company. PlastiFix is advertised as “…a revolutionary methacrylate monomer adhesive system that allows you to fill gaps and fabricate missing pieces. Repairs virtually any rigid plastic including ABS, polycarbonate (PC), PVC, PET, SMC, and fiberglass.” Given that I don’t know what type of plastic that the bumper is made of, I figured I had a good chance of success with this kit. The kit can be bought online through Urethane Supply Company but I found it much cheaper from Hanson Tools (under $30). This product is very easy to use. There are videos on the website that shows how to use the product; it really is very easy to use.
Of course, before I could get the actual repair I had to remove the rear bumper. It’s easy to remove but you may find like I did that the two bolts located directly above the exhaust tips are rusted solid. I had to resort to cutting the bolt heads off using my Dremel tool. I then had to use a propane torch to remove the remains of the bolt and then re-tap the captive nut. I also found that the surface where the rear bumper mounting brackets attached to the car was very rusty. A wire brush and POR15 was used to get rid of the rust and seal the surface.
For the bumper repair I started out by repairing the back of the bumper using a piece of fibreglass matt to strengthen the repair. I started by applying the mixed, liquid PlastiFix to the bumper and them pressing a piece of fibreglass matt into the liquid PlastiFix and then applying more liquid plastic over top until the fibreglass was saturated. I used a piece of plastic from a sandwich baggie to smooth out the liquid PlastiFix. The PlastiFix hardens in about an hour. The front of the bumper was repaired by dripping PlastiFix into the crack until it was filled and then smoothed with the sandwich baggie. Once hardened I sanded it smooth and applied paint. The results are quite good. The repaired corner seems to be as strong as the rest of the bumper and it is still flexible.
Key Blank
Posted By mowog73 On October 1, 2014 @ 1:43 pm In Technical Articles | No Comments
There are many key blanks available in Canada for the MGF at your local locksmith rather than having to purchase at blank from a UK parts supplier. The 85-94 MINI and Range Rover, and 89-94 Discovery used that same key blank as the MGF. Below is a list of blanks for the MGF:
ILCO: RV4, RV4-P, X239, X170 NE48
SILCA: SNE38, SNE38DP, SNE38AP, SNE38P
Introduction to Diagnostic Equipment and Code Readers for the MGF
Posted By mowog73 On February 18, 2014 @ 3:30 pm In Technical Articles | No Comments
From the beginning of production in 1995 until MY2001 (~VIN 522572), the MGF 1.8 mpi used a Rover-developed, Motorola MEMS1.9 (Modular Engine Management System) ECU (engine control unit), and the MGF VVC used MEMS2J. During MY2001 (after ~VIN 522572) the switch was made to MEMS3 for both the mpi and VVC. Unfortunately only MEMS3 is E-OBD/ODB2 compliant. To my knowledge neither the MEMS1.9 nor 2J ECU’s can be read with code readers available in North America. MEMS1.9 and 2J use an ODB2-style plug, which is located on the fuse panel.
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In the UK you can go to an ex-MG Rover garage and they probably have the factory diagnostic equipment called Testbook/T-4, but for us in North America this isn’t an option. There are two options that I know of when it comes to code readers and diagnostic equipment for the enthusiast.
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Blackbox Solutions’s produce a computer-based diagnostic system called Faultmate MSV-2, which is capable of pretty much everything that the factory Testbook/T-4 is capable of. With Faultmate, you have to buy the software modules for the vehicle system(s) you want to read, for example: the ECU, ABS, Airbag, 5AS Alarm Module, EPAS Power Steering System. The Faultmate provides information on the fault code as well live data from each vehicle system that can provide it. The Faultmate is capable of programming key fobs and accessing the EKA (Emergency Key Access) code. http://www.blackbox-solutions.com [1]
Hand-held code readers that can read MEMS 1.9 and 2J OBD are available in the UK. A code reader will only be able to access the trouble codes.
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One code reader that you will see mentioned occasionally is the T300+. These are commonly found on eBay. You must make sure that the unit’s vehicle coverage includes Rover. The lead that comes with these units will talk to the ECU but to communicate with the Lucas 5AS security system, you will need a special 5AS lead, which allows the T300+ to talk to the Lucas 5AS security system and may be able to program a fob and access the EKA code. 5AS cables are available on eBay. Try searching for: MG Rover 5AS Alarm ECU Programming Cable. The T300+ is talked of extensively in this thread: T300+ key coder and ECU diagnostic reader: MEMS1.9 and 2J [2]
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Here are a few websites that may have the correct T300+:
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=t300&catId=0&manual=y
http://go.redirectingat.com/?id=23469X8 … 26page%3D5